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| In the Grand Canyon - May 31, 2025 |
Return to the Grand Canyon
Two years ago I planned to go rim-to-rim (R2R) in the Grand Canyon but a severe winter damaged the trans-canyon pipeline and North Kaibab trail necessitating scrapping those plans. We went rim-to-river (South Kaibab Trail-Phantom Ranch-Bright Angel Trail) but my desire to go R2R remained.
Because of the difficulties in getting accommodations at the Grand Canyon, especially on the North Rim, planning must begin early. When I learn in May 2024 that Cathy plans to put together a R2R effort in May or June 2025 with her East Valley Runners group, I express interest. Getting the welcome to join, planning begins.
I invite daughter Hilary and friend Jennifer and both agree to the adventure. Hilary sees it as a chance to do something special with me (perhaps the last of epic adventures). Jennifer has not been to the Grand Canyon and as she was planning to go to Bryce and Zion with her friend, this is an opportunity to make it even better.
My wife Sandy is also coming along, and has agreed to be a sherpa and drive the four hours and 220 from the south rim to the north rim.
Planning
My initial plan is to go from the North Rim down North Kaibab Trail and cross the silver bridge to go up Bright Angel Trail on Sunday, . This has several advantages. The North Rim is 1000 feet higher than the South Rim, so it will be 5000 feet of descent followed by 4000 feet of ascent. Second, Bright Angel Trail has four places to access water.
Cathy and some of her folks are considering going south to north to south rim-to-rim-to-rim on May 31 - June 1 with an overnight on the North Rim, so we will be able to join them for their return.
Lodging accomodations can be difficult to acquire, especially on the North Rim, so I make a variety of reservations for both the North and South Rim months in advance. They require payment of a night's lodging in advance but are fully refundable up to about 72 hours in advance of arrival. At one time I may have had as many as five or six rooms reserved on various dates, just in case.
No Plan Survives First Contact with the Enemy
And the just in case is justified. In early 2025, the National Park Serivce announces that due to construction of the trans-canyon waterline, the silver bridge and the River Trail are scheduled to be closed when we are there. There are three alternatives for a R2R.
The first is to go South Kaibab trail to North Kaibab trail, reversing the direction we planned on and adding 1000 of elevation gain. The second is to go in the opposite direction, but that means the last seven miles up South Kaibab will be in the sun and with no access to water. The third is to go North Kaibab, then three miles up South Kaibab to Tonto Trail, four relatively flat miles to Bright Angel Trail, and then four miles up Bright Angel to the South Rim. It's longer, but it does provide access to water.
A discussion with Cathy settles it: we will go South Kaibab to North Kaibab on Saturday, May 31.
Panic
On May 19 NPS puts out a press release about a 74-year old experienced hiker who died a half mile from the North Rim while doing a R2R on May 15. This strikes me hard, as that description fits me. And the temperature that day at Phantom Ranch, at the bottom of the canyon, had a high of only 75 degrees.
I'm rattled. Temperature forecasts for Phantom Ranch are for very high 90s and every day are revised upwards. I want to do R2R but I also don't want to appear in an NPS press release.
The week before our scheduled crossing I start emailing Cathy of my concerns. Half joking, I write "If I die in the canyon I prefer that my body be removed slung over the back of a mule rather than lifted out by helicopter." Her response is a bit of tough love: "Do us all a favor and don't keel over, please." I respond that "I'll try to remain upright and moving for[ward] under my own power."
But I can't get it out of my head. On Wednesday, May 28, I write another email apologizing "for sounding like a whiny baby" but spewing out my concerns as the temperature forecast is now for 108 degrees at Phantom Ranch. Wisely, she ignores me.
We fly to Las Vegas on May 29. I confide my concerns to Hilary and suggest that maybe I should simply do South Kaibab to Tonto Trail and then up Bright Angel and back to the South Rim while she goes rim-to-rim. I am told in no uncertain terms that she had come out to do rim-to-rim with me and that I was going to do it.
Preparation
On Friday, May 30, we drive from Las Vegas to the South Rim, with a stop in Williams for lunch and then another stop to buy last minute snacks, supplies and breakfast food for the next morning.
We check into Maswik Lodge, and head over to El Tovar to have dinner with Cathy, her husband (and sherpa) Jim and with Tracey, who is also going R2R. Cathy provides additional reassurance for me, and after dinner we view the Grand Canyon and then go back to our rooms to prepare for our 5 a.m. start.
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| South Kaibab Trailhead - Me, Jennifer, Hilary |
Heading Down
We meet up with Cathy and her East Valley Runners crew and Jennifer with her companion at the wheel for the drive to the drop-off near the South Kaibab trailhead (mile 0, 7260 feet elevation, 5:07 a.m.). The weather is temperate, unlike two years ago when it was cool starting out. I take that as a bad omen of heat to come. Tracey helps me figure out how to get my heartrate to display on my Garmin. After everyone has a chance to use the facilities, adjust their poles and gear we head down at 5:07 a.m.
The East Valley folks are quickly gone - we see them disappearing down the switchbacks as Hilary, Jennifer and I start down. I've determined to just hike it rather than do any running at all. Hilary hugs the wall-side of the trail for the first five minutes until she gets comfortable knowing that she isn't about to plunge over the other side of the trail.
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| Jennifer and Hilary with O'Neill Butte ahead |
In less than a mile we arrive at Ooh-ah Point (mile 0.9, 6660 feet, 5:30 a.m.) 800 feet lower than the rim. The sun is rising and we take pictures before resuming our descent.
As we descend, Jennifer, an avid gardener, uses an app on her phone to identify plants along the trail.
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| Jennifer IDs plants on South Kaibab |
My rim-to-river experience two years ago has taught me that poles are as important, maybe even more so, on the way down than on the way up, and I am using from the first step. Nevertheless, I get a bit wobbly on the way down. It isn't a problem when I'm moving, but when I stop I sway and on a couple of occasions, slowly and gently wind up sitting on the ground or leaning against a rock wall.
Hilary has lost whatever fear she initially had, and tends to go ahead and then wait for Jennifer and I to catch up. I obsess over my heart rate, and check it frequently to make sure it stays below 150 bpm.
We chat with a couple on the way up. They have been progressing slowly, aware that South Kaibab offers no shade and no water.
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| Mule train headed up South Kaibab |
Hilary heads off ahead of us and we see her gradually pulling away. We won't see her again until Phantom Ranch.
Jennifer and I enjoy our views of the Colorado, green and far below as we trek along in no hurry. A mule train of nine mules and two wranglers passes us headed up.
Not too far from the last switchbacks to the Black Bridge, we come across a woman sitting with her two young adult daughters. They are headed up, but the woman is not feeling particularly well and the day is going to get hotter on an exposed trail with no water for either drinking or cooling off. We discuss her options with them - go slowly, rest wherever there is shade, wait at the Tipoff shelter until the day cools down. Maybe then take Tonto Trail to Havasupai Gardens. Longer overall, but less strenuous and gets one to water. Or turnaround and go back to Phantom Ranch. No one wants a helicopter ride out of the canyon. Choose poorly and your health or life may be the price
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| Sitting in the tunnel to the Black Bridge |
Finally we reach the tunnel to the Black Bridge and head across. Midway I say "How y'all doin'," to four men heading in the opposite direction. "You from Louisiana?," they ask.
I'm not but they are, and are on a raft trip down the canyon which has put in at the beach. We chat with them for several minutes and then proceed to the north side of the canyon. I walk on while Jennifer takes time to view the remains of Native American structures along the river. I pass a ranger by a misting station warning hikers of the dangers of heading up South Kaibab (it's now about 11 a.m.) and checking to be sure they are prepared with sufficient water.
Phantom Ranch
We reach Phantom Ranch (mile 7.5, 2460 feet, 10:40 a.m.) where Hilary greets us. She had caught up with Cathy and her friends, but by the time we arrive, they are long gone. We go inside, get lemonade, and sit to cool off and have a snack. I keep glancing at my heart rate, but it stubbornly refuses to drop below 100 bpm (my normal resting pulse is about 60-62). We mail our pre-addressed, pre-stamped, and for me, pre-written, postcards so they can be carried out by mule. We top up our fluids, wet ourselves down, and start up North Kaibab Trail - during the time of day (10 a.m. - 4 p.m.) the Park Service recommends that one not hike. Especially on a day when the high at Phantom Ranch will hit 107.
But we think we are prepared so we go.
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| Leaving Phantom Ranch |
The Box to Cottonwood Campground
The hike through the narrow canyon known as the Box isn't strenuous in itself in that it only gains abut 1300 feet of elevation over the 7.2 miles from Phantom Ranch to Ribbon Falls. But the narrow part of the canyon reflects and retains heat as you follow the course of Bright Angel Creek. We take opportunities to sit in the shade on the way. Hilary remarks on the remaining posts of the Trans-Canyon Telephone line that follow our path.
After a bit the canyon widens out and we are hiking a shade-less trail. We spy water on the trail and realize that the Transcanyon pipeline, which runs under the trail is leaking. It is an opportunity to wet ourselves down with the cold water, a process made easier by Jennifer's foresight of bringing a couple of the empty lemonade cups from Phantom Ranch. A little bit further there is a small streamlet crossing the trail and we repeat the opportunity to wet down.
When we arrive at the intersection of the path to Ribbon Falls, (mile 13) Jennifer and Hilary defer to me whether to continue on or take the detour. As much as I'd like to I decide that we are pretty far behind time and should press on, so we stay on North Kaibab Trail and go up Asinine Hill (probably called that because choosing to go that way rather than to Ribbon Falls is an asinine decision). In hindsight, it's a decision that I regret.
We arrive at Cottonwood Campground (mile 14.5) at about 4 p.m. No hurry for us, we sit, drink, nibble a snack or a gel, and use the facilities. The volunteer there talks with someone leading a hiking group about someone in his group who is having problem. The volunteer suggests that perhaps the person should sit out the night on the porch of the ranger station.
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| Sign at Manzanita |
Cottonwood to Manzanita
We leave Cottonwood and continue on. Clouds start to drift across the sky and we root for them to block the sun. Finally some do, and we get relief from the rays of the sun. We gain another 600 feet of elevation in the 1.5 miles to Manzanita (mile 16). Jennifer goes and soaks in Bright Angel Creek. Hilary and I wet down from the water spigot. All of us top up our water, as this is the last opportunity to do so (the water at Supai Tunnel is off.)
Manzanita to the North Rim
Now the climbing begins. Manzanita is at 4600 feet but the North Rim trailhead is 8240 feet. We will have to climb 3640 feet over the next 5.4 miles. In comparison, we have ascended only 2120 feet since leaving the Colorado River 8.6 miles ago.
Fortunately the altitude, the clouds and the shadows from the lateness of the day - 5 p.m. is approaching, are all contributing to a cooler temperature. I notice that my heart rate drops nearly 10 bpm once we were out of the sun.
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| North Kaibab past Manzanita Rest |
The sight of water gushing out of Roaring Springs on the other side of the creek is remarkable. That is the water source for the North and South Rim developments and Phantom Ranch.
But we are slowing down. Jennifer starts to feel a bit ill from an infection she picked up on the flight west. I'm feeling tired and developing cramps. Hilary has to deal with the two of us slogging along and calling for increasingly more rest stops.
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| Looking back to the Redwall Bridge |
We get to the Redwall Bridge (mile 18.5, 6000 feet, about 6:45 p.m) and stop and chat with an older couple. They are headed up and ask us to tell the person who is meeting them that they are fine.
As we go along we try to see if we can get cell reception to tell our families of our progress. Occasionally Jennifer can receive messages, but sending is a failure. I had made dinner reservations for 8 p.m. at the Grand Canyon Lodge but it is clear that we will not be making it.
We pass thru Supai Tunnel (mile 19.5, 6800 feet, 7:30 p.m.). Another hiker points out some Steller's jays. Upward we go as the light starts to fade.
Here a decision I made days ago come back to haunt me. I knew from my rim-to-river two years ago that I would not need a headlamp at the start. I figured that we would easily be done in 13 hours, or by 6 p.m., so there was no need to bring lights. Now that faulty decision was coming to haunt us.
Fortunately Jennifer had a flashlight and Hilary had a light too. If need be, I could use the light on my phone. But staying with Jennifer, I can navigate with her light.
After Supai Tunnel Hilary pushes on while Jennifer and I continue up the steep switchbacks. We see a light above and surmise that it is Hilary waiting for us at the Coconino Overlook. That proves correct when we get there (mile 20.5, 7730 feet, 8:16 p.m.).
More switchbacks follow for the final ascent, but that also means I sit down again to rest. Hilary, who is a bit ahead, comes back, and says we need to keep going as it is getting dark and colder. I tell her that a rest is more important to me. Having been held back by my pace and believing I didn't do enough core and strength training, while at the same time nagging her about her lack of trail and time-on-feet training, she expresses her frustration. At the top of her lungs. In salty language. Then she turns around and heads up the trail at a pace fueled by frustration and anger.
Jennifer and I get to our feet and continue our slow pace upward. The sight of aspens perks me up, as Cathy had told us they only grow above 8000 feet, and when they are sighted, you are close to done.
We meet someone headed down to meet another hiker, and then Jennifer's companion appears to greet her.
North Rim
I top out and stop my watch by the iconic North Kaibab Trailhead sign (mile 22.2, 8241 feet, 8:45 p.m.). It's dark and it takes a couple of minutes to locate the rental car driven 210 miles from the South Rim to meet us. Hilary is in the car with Sandy, waiting for my arrival.
We have missed our dinner reservations at the Lodge, but we get pizza and beer in the adjacent Saloon just before it closes.
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| The view from Grand Canyon Lodge |
We have breakfast in the Grand Canyon Lodge the next morning and admire the view of the canyon from the lodge's porch. Jennifer and her companion head to Page to visit the slot canyons. Hilary get a ride to Phoenix Airport with one of the East Valley Runners. Sandy and I leave around noon to head to Bluff UT, the Valley of the Gods, Four Corners and Santa Fe.
About 6 p.m. on June 1 the power fails on the North Rim and the facilities are closed for several days.
Lightning ignites the Dragon Bravo Fire on July 4. By the time it is finished it has burned 145,504 acres. It becomes the seventh largest wildfire in Arizona history, and on July 13 it destroyed the Grand Canyon Lodge and many other structures on the North Rim. It burned down North Kaibab Trail to Supai Tunnel. One fiefighter died of a heart attack. As I write this (September 22) it is unknown when the North Rim or the North Kaibab Trail will reopen.
